The story of Khadi is intrinsically linked with India's fight for independence.
When the Satyagraha movement was launched in 1917,
Khadi made its incredibly modest debut in 1918.
Initially, the British rulers dismissed Khadi as a minor blip,
as textile imports remained largely unaffected by 1920. However,
the tide began to turn with the boycott of foreign-made textiles.
The horrors of 1943, when millions perished due to a man-made famine
caused by the diversion of foodgrains to Britain for soldiers at war,
fueled a deeper sense of resistance.
Khadi transformed from a simple fabric into a powerful
statement of self-reliance and a symbol of defiance against colonial exploitation.
This humble fabric became an extraordinary unifying force
for a country brimming with unparalleled diversity.
Imagine a nation where, according to the 2001 Census of India,
an astounding 122 major languages and 1,599 other languages and dialects are spoken,
alongside equally diverse and numerous cuisines and cultures!
The tradition of textile weaving was not new to this land;
this craft had existed for millennia, since 2000 BCE,
allowing Khadi to take strong roots.
Because Khadi was initially restricted to cottage industries, it gained immense
popularity in rural India.
Production, sales, and which, unfortunately,
means comprehensive data on these early figures scarce.
Known for its comfort and ease of maintenance,
Khadi continued to make gradual inroads.
Freedom fighters adopted Khadi as their everyday wear, favoring ethnic styles and attire. Subsequently, the political class embraced Khadi as their preferred fabric for daily use.
Like many things, this humble fabric was also a victim of neglect and governmental apathy until 1956, when the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) Act was passed. Initially, no serious effort was made to shift Khadi from cottage industry to power loom weaving, as towns and cities were not yet acquainted with it. Post-independence, hesitant efforts were made to begin weaving Khadi on power looms to further increase its reach into urban centers. Early distribution centers, often ashram-based sales points, emerged as part of the movement, paving the way for the commercial retail environment Khadi enjoys today. The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), a statutory body, was officially formed in April 1957. Mumbai saw its landmark "Khadi Emporium" established in 1954, and the Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan in Chennai was inaugurated on October 16, 1957.
I vividly recall in the mid-1970s, when low-budget cinema found acceptance among audiences, a Khadi Kurta over a pair of jeans became a genuine fashion statement among college-goers. This led to Khadi being worn more regularly and often. Spring, summer, and autumn were ideal seasons for Khadi. It became fashionable to wear Khadi when going out for dinner, often with a shawl draped over one's shoulders to ward off the slight chill experienced in late autumn in Delhi.The other distinct memory I have is of purchasing White Khadi Kurta Pyjama exclusively for Holi celebrations instead of regular trousers & t-shirts or shirts, this trend continued for at least a couple of decades, The more adventurous even experimented with wearing Khadi in winter months. At that time, there was only a single sales outlet for Khadi in Delhi:Unfortunately I can’t locate any image of that outlet on the net today, however the images of the current outlets are available, there are many more outlets today in Delhi than the solitary we had in the 70’s, 80’s & 90’s. "Khadi GramUdyog." Khadi a coarse,rustic but incredibly affordable, suggesting that revenues must have been extremely modest given the prices paid for Khadi apparel. The store itself was dimly lit and a nightmare for shoppers, with everything moving at a snail's pace.
My most recent visit to that very same outlet in 2014 left me absolutely amazed by the makeover it had received! It was swanky by earlier standards, brightly lit, and spread over three floors, offering a wide range of apparel and Khadi fabric. Blended with other fibers, it ranged from coarse to incredibly fine with a wonderfully soft feel. My personal favorites are the silk-blended solid color Khadi, and occasionally, I indulge in jacquards and hand-printed Khadi apparel. For me, solid colors and jacquards offer the best look (a personal choice and opinion, of course!).
Fortunately, some data is now available, illustrating Khadi's incredible growth. Khadi sales were around ₹581 crore in late 2013, rising to an impressive ₹750 crore by March 2014.
Just as everything else has transformed for the better in this vibrant country, this humble fabric has also experienced phenomenal growth. The data speaks for itself:
2013–14: ₹1,081.04 crore (Khadi only)
2022–23: ₹5,942.93 crore (Khadi only)
2023–24: ₹6,496 crore (Khadi only)
Prime Minister Modi he exclusively supports ethnic wear in Khadi all the time, has emerged as the tallest and most impactful brand ambassador for this humble fabric,. Khadi. With his strong advocacy, Khadi has truly become a style and fashion statement on the global stage, a testament to its remarkable journey from a symbol of resistance to an icon of global fashion and nation’s identity!
